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Spiel
Aka Pesce alla Mamma di Edo
Two minutes prep. Six minutes cook time. A meal worthy of your nest guests.
This recipe was inspired by Edo, the kind of Italian man that American girls can’t help but fall for. With long dark curls that bounce in joy as he walks and gray-blue eyes that sparkle with depth and intelligence, Edo has a smile that runs across his face like an Italian sports car. Even the way he dresses, in loose jeans, driving loafers, and a soft cashmere sweater, draws you toward him. Yet when shirtless, he boasts tattoos of gruesome monsters, as well as a naked girl with a slit throat. So there’s that. He’s like a golden retriever on bad acid: a huge heart laced with danger, drawing in unsuspecting women with the mysterious waggings of his tail.
The only child of divorced parents in once-royal, now-industrial Turin, in Northern Italy, Edo grew up quite alone. Edo’s mother, unlike a typical mamma italiana, worked full-time, leaving Edo’s rearing to a series of hired hands. In the summers, when everybody went to the seaside on vacation, Edo went with Irma and Lino, an elderly couple, to a rented apartment on the Riviera, where his mother met him on the weekends. Though happy to be free to run around the beachside town, Edo missed his mom. So she sent Irma to the shore with a list of her favorite recipes to make for her son. La mamma di Edo made her love and presence known through food.
This is one of her recipes.
The secret to this fish: You grill it, and then place it on a platter with abundant lemon juice, and some olive oil, salt and oregano. The fish soaks the juices right in, so there is no way this fish could ever be dry, even if you overcook it. Another magical touch to turn beginners into badasses.
Meal
Serves 2 to 4
For the topping:
- 20 pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped
- 1⁄4 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
- 3 to 4 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 40 grinds of pepper mill
For the fish:
- 2 juicy lemons
- 2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano
- 2 whole branzinos, filleted (See Note)
Note: Each fish has two fillets. In a dinner that has other courses, one fillet per person is enough. That said, I always make extra, in case someone wants seconds. Since this fish is also great served at room temperature, I sometimes use it on a buffet with salads or Grilled Eggplant Burrata Involtini. In that case, I cut each fillet in half before grilling to make smaller servings.
Directions:
Prepare the topping:
- Place the olives and parsley in a small bowl and drizzle with the olive oil until the ingredients are well coated. Grind in the pepper, which will temper the saltiness of the olives. Mix well and set aside.
Prepare the fish:
- Light your grill or grill pan and let it get very, very hot.
- Squeeze the lemons on the platter you intend to use to serve the fish. Add the olive oil, salt, and oregano. Swirl it around and lick your finger to taste. Adjust the seasoning. You want it lemony, but with enough salt and olive oil to temper the lemons.
- Dry your fish really, really well with paper towels. Drying the skin will prevent it from sticking to the pan. This is important. Cook the fish for about 4 to 5 minutes skin-side down, until you get some nice grill marks and a golden skin. Your skin might stick until it is nice and cooked, so just chill out. (If you find that your skin is sticking completely for some reason, just drizzle a little oil on the side of it while it cooks. That will help loosen it up.)
- Flip it over and cook for about 2 minutes on the other side, until you see golden marks on the flesh.
- Place fish flesh-side down on the prepared lemon platter and let it sit for 5 minutes, to soak in the juices. Before serving, flip the fish over and spoon some of the lemony juices over it. Top with a nice spoonful or two of the olive mixture. (Alternatively you can serve it skin side up, which is quite pretty.)
- Serve warm or at room temperature.
Make Ahead Prep: This fish will not dry out while it sits in the lemon juice, so it’s ok to prepare it a couple of hours ahead and serve at room temperature.
Fish Variation: Edo originally made this recipe with a fully cooked tuna steak. For years I taught the recipe with swordfish fillets. In Hawaii, I’ve made it with opah and Mahi Mahi. The point is you can try this with all kinds of grilled fish, though cooking times will vary. Just think of Edo and his mom when you do!
